Just keep surfing, surfing, surfing
Jun. 28th, 2011 10:29 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
jactradesI got back from my week of surf camp last Friday, and then spent most of the weekend passed out.
It. Was. So. Awesome.
Despite being a water fiend in general, I never had much of a chance to surf when I was a kid (I raced sailboats with my dad instead). The few times I have gotten out on a board have been some of the best hours of my life, no joke. So when we moved back to California from DC, I decided I was going to take up surfing as my sport of choice. Thus, surf camp.
Wake up. Eat a delicious healthy breakfast. Three-minute walk to the beach. Bit of yoga. Surf all morning. Eat a delicious healthy lunch (Avocado overload? Yes please.). Nap. Snack on some fruit. Bit more yoga. Surf all late afternoon/early evening. Eat a delicious healthy dinner. Sleep under the stars.
I feel like I've simultaneously gone through a detox, boot camp (I am still sore), and hippie spiritual retreat ("let's all just chill on the waves for a bit and watch the dolphins, dudes"). Yeah, dolphins (I'm on the green board):
Every morning there were dolphins playing in the waves, sometimes no more than ten feet from us. You could stick your head under the water and hear the whistles and clicks.
That photo is from the second day. Oh god, the second day. It was the worst - my arms were just jelly. Luckily we still had smaller waves (around 4 ft.) that day, so I didn't get punished too hard by the waves for paddling like a ninny and taking ten minutes to pop up on the board.
This sequence of shots pretty much encapsulates the morning session of the second day:
My arms started to get with the program by the third day, which was good because we had eight and ten feet swells for the rest of the week (along with the typical Santa Cruz fog). If I'd still been getting up slowly on that size waves, well, I'd have been swallowing a lot more salt water. As it was, there were some pretty epic wipe outs. (And, oh, the lovely schadenfreude of just making it over a surprise monster wave before it broke, and then looking back and seeing everyone, including our instructors, just wiped off the map.)
Anyways, I'm so addicted. Watch out wetsuit tan lines, here I come.
(I did sneak out of the camp one day to post my![[livejournal.com profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/external/lj-community.gif)
trekreversebang fic, and that Starbucks latte, pastry, & wifi were pretty damn fab so I'm not quite ready to go live a proper beach bum lifestyle. Yet.)
It. Was. So. Awesome.
Despite being a water fiend in general, I never had much of a chance to surf when I was a kid (I raced sailboats with my dad instead). The few times I have gotten out on a board have been some of the best hours of my life, no joke. So when we moved back to California from DC, I decided I was going to take up surfing as my sport of choice. Thus, surf camp.
Wake up. Eat a delicious healthy breakfast. Three-minute walk to the beach. Bit of yoga. Surf all morning. Eat a delicious healthy lunch (Avocado overload? Yes please.). Nap. Snack on some fruit. Bit more yoga. Surf all late afternoon/early evening. Eat a delicious healthy dinner. Sleep under the stars.
I feel like I've simultaneously gone through a detox, boot camp (I am still sore), and hippie spiritual retreat ("let's all just chill on the waves for a bit and watch the dolphins, dudes"). Yeah, dolphins (I'm on the green board):
Every morning there were dolphins playing in the waves, sometimes no more than ten feet from us. You could stick your head under the water and hear the whistles and clicks.
That photo is from the second day. Oh god, the second day. It was the worst - my arms were just jelly. Luckily we still had smaller waves (around 4 ft.) that day, so I didn't get punished too hard by the waves for paddling like a ninny and taking ten minutes to pop up on the board.
This sequence of shots pretty much encapsulates the morning session of the second day:
My arms started to get with the program by the third day, which was good because we had eight and ten feet swells for the rest of the week (along with the typical Santa Cruz fog). If I'd still been getting up slowly on that size waves, well, I'd have been swallowing a lot more salt water. As it was, there were some pretty epic wipe outs. (And, oh, the lovely schadenfreude of just making it over a surprise monster wave before it broke, and then looking back and seeing everyone, including our instructors, just wiped off the map.)
Anyways, I'm so addicted. Watch out wetsuit tan lines, here I come.
(I did sneak out of the camp one day to post my
trekreversebang fic, and that Starbucks latte, pastry, & wifi were pretty damn fab so I'm not quite ready to go live a proper beach bum lifestyle. Yet.)
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no subject
Date: 2011-06-29 12:32 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-30 01:42 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-29 04:45 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-30 01:44 am (UTC)The yoga on the beach everyday was really nice - both for stretching out the sore muscles and just concentrating on your body & breath. I could definitely see going on a vacation where it was just that sort of thing all day.
no subject
Date: 2011-06-30 01:41 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-30 05:15 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-06-29 11:42 pm (UTC)(I'm wondering about wetsuit tan lines. Don't wetsuits kind of cover your whole body? I'm picturing someone with like two inches of tanned ankle. "Yeah, he's a surfer, I can tell by his ankles.")
no subject
Date: 2011-06-30 01:40 am (UTC)The hands are the most obvious on me - right at the wrist I go from this medium brown (my summer-tan color courtesy of the Mexican heritage from my mom) to super white (my normal winter color, which has been maintained by long office hours this year). It looks pretty hilarious, tbh.